A trip out West

Zeke and I drove out to Denver and Albuquerque a couple of weeks ago to visit friends. It was kind of a semi-spur-of-the-moment trip. We ended up leaving at around 5 pm on a Tuesday, planning to arrive in Denver on Wednesday. It meant driving late into the night to try to get to the halfway point, which is nearly 700 miles. We pulled over into a rest area in Kansas, which I recognized from previous trips, and spent the night in the back of the truck.

I have a camper shell, and I made a bed with a foam mattress, so it wasn’t as bad as that might sound. Zeke also had a foam mattress. I slept in a sleeping bag, which was plenty warm, and I tossed a sleeping bag over Zeke, so he was warm, too. We got up pretty early the next morning and headed west on I-70. As we drove, I started seeing signs saying that I-70 was closed at Burlington, Co., not far across the state line. I looked at a map and decided to try for Colby, where I could get a hotel that allowed dogs.

The weather got worse as we drove. This is what we were driving into.

It wasn’t snowing, but the wind was blowing. I saw two tractor-trailer trucks on their sides, blown over by the wind. I still didn’t realize exactly how strong the wind was until we got to the hotel in Colby, and I could barely stand up whenI got out of the truck. The wind took one of my gloves out the open door, and it flew away into the distance.

My phone’s weather radar app showed what looked like a hurricane just east of Denver. I have never seen anything like that outside of an actual hurricane, and I have never experienced a steady, high wind like that. Denver was getting blasted by the wind and a good bit of snow. A lot of people got stranded on I-25, especially south of Denver.

Anyway, the hotel was pretty swanky. Here’s the pool.

That’s dirt, not ice.

The hotel was actually OK. The only problem, aside from the fact that an idiot had tried and failed to hook up the TV to the cable outlet, was that Zeke was constantly whining at the door to go outside. Going outside was not a pleasant experience. The next morning I checked the Colorado transportation web site, which said I-70 was still closed. Checkout time approached and passed, and the interstate was still closed. I walked Zeke across the parking lot and down the street a short way. I found my errant glove beside the road. I drove around a while to kill some time. The wind was still blowing hard. How hard was the wind blowing? Hard enough to blow the stripes off the pavement.

I-70 reopened around mid-afternoon. The highway was almost completely clear of snow, with only a few icy spots. There was almost no snow to be seen, on the road or off. I guess it all blew away.

Zeke and I arrived at the house of my friends Errol and Cookie, who I have known for many years, just in time to meet their daughter Debra, who I have also known for many years, and go out to dinner. Her husband and son drove separately and met us at the restaurant. We left Zeke with Errol and Cookie’s two dogs, who had access to the fenced back yard through a doggie door. We had just sat down to eat when I got a call from a Denver number. I almost didn’t answer it because everyone I know in Denver was sitting at the table with me. But I answered, and it was a good thing I did. An extremely nice young woman said that she had found a pretty white and brown dog running across a busy street near my friends’ house. Zeke had climbed a low section of the fence and escaped. He escaped again the next day, but we caught him before he could make for the highway.

My friend’s brother Tom, who I have also known for many years, lives in Edgewood, NM, just east of Albuquerque. He had eye surgery scheduled for the next week, so my friends were going to drive down to help out. It was a good opportunity to see Tom, who I had not seen for several years.

Tom lives in the house he built within sight of I-70. It consists of a house facing a studio across a sunken patio. This is a view from the house towards the studio.

If you look carefully you can see a bust of Richard Feynman, the famous physicist. Here’s a closer view of the bust, which Tom did.

As you can see, Tom is an artist, among other things. His studio is not where he does his sculpting. That he does in his living room. His studio is for making videos. Tom is very involved in the politics of Edgewood, which apparently has more than its share of small-town political funny business. He makes videos to publicize what the mayor and council are doing. It makes the city officials mad.

Tom also keeps a couple of sheep on his property, mainly for the ambience.

We ate green chile cheeseburgers a couple of times, but, unfortunately, no Mexican meals. On the other hand, Tom prepared a couple of quite nice, well-presented dinners, befitting someone who went to Europe for cooking classes.

I couldn’t stay for Tom’s eye surgery. Zeke and I left on Wednesday, heading east on I-40. We stopped that night at a rest area in Arkansas. That rest area was also familiar to me, as I have spent the night there in the back of another truck on a number of occasions.

I saw a lot of windmills on the way out to Denver, and even more on the way back east. There are scores visible from the highway west of Amarillo, and more on the east side. The land is flat there, and, as we found on the way out, the flat plains experience a lot of wind. They are impressive during the day, but eerie at night. At night I could barely see the towers against a cloudy sky. The spinning blades made them look like tall stick men waving their arms at the passing traffic.

We got back home around 9 pm on Thursday. I thought I was in pretty good shape, but when I went to bed that night, I was asleep the moment my head hit the pillow, and I didn’t move for seven hours.

A quick trip to Denver

It had been a long time since I visited my friends in Denver, so I took a quick trip out a couple of weeks ago. I took Zeke and Lucy; Leah stayed home to take care of the cats and Sam, who still gets carsick. I had planned to leave on a Monday, but Zeke made a break for freedom and it took until about mid-afternoon to find him and convince him to come back home. So I left on Tuesday.

It’s 1360 miles from our house, a nice, two-day drive. I’ve made this drive and a similar drive to Albuquerque many times, sometimes in my truck and sometimes riding a motorcycle. I have always simply slept somewhere along the way, in a rest area if in the truck or in some tall weeds if I rode the bike. I stopped this time at a rest area on I-70 in Kansas. I wanted to make 700 miles so the next day would be shorter, but I didn’t manage it.

During the night I dreamed that I was sleeping across the front seats of the truck with my shoulder, my hip and my knee hurting. Then I woke up, sleeping across the front seat with my shoulder, hip and knee hurting.

This was sunrise at the rest area.

I wanted to leave before sunrise, but between hurting and having to take Lucy for a couple of walks during the night, I didn’t sleep well enough to make it.

I got to my friends Errol and Cookie’s house around 8 pm. I usually say I’m visiting Denver, but they actually live in Littleton. Errol and Cookie’s daughter Debra and her husband Tres live not far away, also in Littleton. Grandson Will was there, and granddaughter Emily came home from college to see friends. Another old friend, Tom, Errol’s brother, rode his motorcycle up from near Albuquerque. We spent the next four days visiting.

Here are Tom (standing) and Errol working on Tom’s bike, a 1989 Honda Transalp. I pointed out to them that when you take a trip on a motorcycle, your destination should always be somewhere that you can work on your motorcycle. Maybe that doesn’t apply to modern bikes.

Tres is restoring an MGB-GT, donated by Tom.

Tres’s work is meticulous. The front suspension assembly is lying on the floor right behind Tom. When I saw it I thought it was a rebuilt assembly that Tres had ordered from England, but, no, it was his work. I expect the finished car to look like it was ordered directly from England.

Debra and Tres’s dog Elroy looks like Zeke’s cousin.

They also have a cat, Spencer. Elroy and Spencer get along famously.

Spencer is a cat that is exactly like one that we don’t have.

Zeke and Elroy didn’t get along that well. There was a lot of posturing, some growling and at least one phony fight that involved snarling, barking and snapping, none of which resulted in any injury that I could see. I found a spot of blood above Elroy’s eye, but it wiped off, so I think it probably came from Zeke, although I couldn’t find any place on Zeke where the blood could have come from. I’m not sure what their problem is. I suspect that Elroy resents Zeke, and Zeke is not appropriately respectful in his host’s home.

Part of the visit required that we sit on Debra and Tres’s deck

I think we probably talked about things.

After four short days I had to head back home. I had one last breakfast with Errol, Cookie, and Debra and then found my way back onto I-70.

As it happens, eastern Colorado and western Kansas look pretty much the same going east as they do going west. They are mostly flat, with some low, rolling hills. Windmill farms provide the most visual interest, especially after dark when you can see the red warning lights blinking simultaneously on scores of windmills.

I spent another night in Kansas sleeping across the front seats of the truck. This time I had prepared. I had several pillows to lay out over the seats to make them closer to level and to take the hard edges off the bucket seats. I think Lucy woke me up a couple of times, but I got a decent night’s sleep.

I got home around 11 pm on the second day. I was pretty tired, but it was worth it. I hope it’s not as long before the next visit.

Inside the Biltmore

On the day of our tour we waited in the Biltmore house stables until our 1:30 entry time into the main house. The stables were more impressively constructed than most mansions today. They were crowded, but not with horses. Apparently, Christmas is so popular for visitors that groups of tourists have to wait until their appointed times.

Just off the main entry, which I showed in yesterday’s post, there is a sunken garden area with a glass ceiling. It’s called the winter garden.

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I showed the exterior of this space in yesterday’s post.

The temperature in the entry area was distinctly cool. With the original central heating, I suspect that the temperature of the house would have been kept higher back when the Vanderbilt still lived in the house.

We proceeded into the banquet hall.

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Every room open to the public had at least one Christmas tree.

The billiard room is off one side of the banquet hall.

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A stuffed eagle overlooks the games.

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The ceilings were pretty impressive in most rooms.

I think this is the music room, directly behind the entry hall. The piano looks right, but several other rooms also had pianos. I suspect that there was a need for large quantities of large furniture to fill the large rooms.

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This is the main stairwell, one of the most prominent features of the front exterior.

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The first room on the second floor off the stairs is a sitting room. Then you come to this hallway.

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If you go to the left in this image, you find yourself in George’s bedroom. He had a nice fireplace.

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This is one end of the room.

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Turn to the left and here’s his bed.

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There is a bathroom behind the wall, apparently with two doors. Present-day guests are not allowed to use the house’s bathrooms; they must use restrooms in the stables.

To the left of this image there is a door into a sitting room.

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It’s actually called the oak sitting room. Nice paneling. It is set up as if for breakfast. The door in the center of the wall leads into the hallway. I presume that would allow servants to bring a meal into the room without going into the bedroom itself.

Just beyond this room is Mrs. Vanderbilt’s bedroom. Hers is smaller, but there is a maid’s room just down the hall.

On the third floor there is yet another sitting room.

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I think this is the third floor sitting room, based mainly on the slope of the walls, which indicates that the room is tucked up against the roof. There is a hallway off the sitting room which leads to several guest bedrooms.

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You can see the slope of the roof here as well. It so dark that it was hard to get a decent shot. The guest rooms are much smaller than the Vanderbilts’ rooms. I suppose you wouldn’t want to encourage guests to stay too long.

This room had a fireplace with a distinctive and significantly different hearth and surround. It might have been the Gainsborough Room, but I’m not sure. When I look at a floor plan I find it hard to figure out exactly where we were at any given time.

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From here we had to descend to the second floor so that we could descend yet again down towards the bowels of the building. The fourth floor, where the Vanderbilts stuffed many of their servants safely out of sight, was not open to the public.

The servants’ stairwell was much more modest than the main stairwell, but still impressive.

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Down in the basement we went along a castlesque passageway.

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The walls are stone set in cement. The ceiling is a series of barrel vaults formed of brick. The Vanderbilts’ kept the exercise areas down on the first basement level. First, the swimming pool.

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Small, since George didn’t swim, but you have to have something for the guests, you know. And then here’s the bowling alley.

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I presume servants stayed at the far end to reset the pins.

The exercise room was sparsely furnished.

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That’s a rowing machine. There are parallel bars just to the right.

There was a second basement level not open to the public. I think it was mainly storage, so probably not very interesting, except perhaps the wine cellar.

There was a display of historical photographs in the basement, where we found evidence of either fraud or time travel. Look carefully at this photo of a photo.

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Here is the caption.

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Look back at the photo; do you see anything that looks, lets say, anachronistic? It’s just to the right of dead center. Here:

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This is one of the few things I can remember, or at least think I can remember, from a tour of the Biltmore back in the early ’90’s. To me this looks like a modern automobile, possibly an ’80’s model Ford Fiesta or a Volkswagen Rabbit. The only problem is that it appears too large to be a car. I have no idea what it actually is.

And with that, we ended our tour of the house. I was left with an overwhelming impression of conspicuous consumption. I suspect that the $90 million adjusted cost of the house and estate is significantly less than it would cost to actually build such a structure today. Even buying the 125,000 acres today would probably cost more than $50 million, if you could find a tract of land like this.

If you look back at the previous post showing an overall exterior view of the house, you can see a wide, long flat area in front. The land was not originally like that. There must have been the equivalent of many hundreds of modern dumptruck loads of fill dirt to bring the land up level with the front of the house. That alone would cost a minimum of tens of thousands of dollars today, at least at retail.

I have no idea what George Vanderbilt would have paid to bring back the huge collection of European furniture and fixtures he used in the house.

I have to admit that this estate qualifies as wretched excess, but the one difference I noticed in comparison to what I have seen of, for example, Donald Trump’s lavish homes, is taste.

A trip to Asheville

Leah and I drove up to Asheville, NC, on Saturday, December 10. We wanted to see the Vanderbilt Estate in its Christmas finery.

Asheville is about 222 miles northeast of us via two-land mountain roads. Google Maps estimated it to be a 4 hour 16 minutes drive. A route taking I-75 to Knoxville, TN, and then I-40 east almost to the front door of the hotel was 275 miles. That route was supposed to take 4 hours and 28 minutes. However, I didn’t believe that we could make the average speed that Google thought we could on the mountain roads. The road is winding and passes through every small town between Rome and Asheville. So we took the Interstate.

The Biltmore Estate is said to be the largest private residence in the United States. It was built by George Vanderbilt, the grandson of Cornelius Vanderbilt, in the late 1890’s. It was initially to be a small summer retreat for him and his mother, who had been advised to try the weather in the North Carolina mountains for her health.

Construction began in 1889. The house was opened in 1895. It has 250 rooms in total, including 43 bathrooms, and 65 fireplaces. There is more than 135,000 square feet of living space. The estate originally had 125,000 acres. The family later sold most of it to the federal government as a national forest, leaving 8000 acres in the estate today.

The cost of building the estate was estimated by one source as about $5 million, which would be around $90 million in today’s money. A lot of Grandfather Cornelius’s money was in railroading (New York Central) so, of course, his grandson had a three-mile spur built to haul material and workers to the construction site.

When Cornelius Vanderbilt, the patron of the family, died, he was supposed to be the richest man in the US. When his eldest son died, he was also the richest man in the US. Cornelius’s grandson George apparently used most of his part of the inheritance to build the Biltmore Estate, paying little attention to maintaining his business interests. I suppose it’s not surprising that one of the current Vanderbilt descendants, Anderson Cooper, has been quoted as saying that his mother (Gloria Vanderbilt) told him there was no trust fund.

George married in 1898 and the couple had a daughter, Cornelia, in 1900. Unfortunately, George didn’t get a chance to enjoy his gigantic estate for long. He died in 1913 at age 51 from complications from an appendectomy. His widow moved back to the estate and Cornelia grew up there.

The main house is approached by a three-mile road that winds through the forest and ends at one of the gates, at which point the house abruptly comes into view.

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This is the exterior of the main stairwell.

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The house has four floors and a basement. The family living quarters are on the second and third floors. This is the exterior of the nursery.

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I wonder if the gargoyles gave baby Cornelia nightmares. I wonder how a few would look on our house. Maybe I’ll settle for a Kokopelli in the front yard.

The glass roof between these two wings covers a plant room just off the main entrance.

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This is the main entry hall, looking from the rear towards the front doors.

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Christmas decorations are big at the Biltmore, as you can see when I post some more pictures later.

Mardi Gras! New Orleans!

We weren’t there.

But we did visit New Orleans during warm weather way back in 2008. I’ve been wanting to post a few of our pictures from that trip and this seems like a reasonable time.

This is a horse (Mule? Yes, it definitely is a mule. Thanks to The Ridger, I now know that you can tell the difference by the muzzle.) that pulled a carriage around the French Quarter. It was drinking from a trough at Jackson Square.

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This is the St. Louis Cathedral on Jackson Square during the day.

square in day

This scene is nice during the day, but it really shines at night.

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I took this by leaning against a building and hand holding the camera.

We spent a good bit of our time in New Orleans just walking around. We got hot one day, so we decided we needed a hurricane.

hurricane leah

One day we drove up along the river to see some of the old plantations. This one is pretty famous, and this view is the most famous part of it

oak alley

The plantation is called Oak Alley. A number of movies and TV shows have been filmed here, among them “Hush, Hush Sweet Charlotte”, “Interview With the Vampire”, and “Primary Colors”.

We also took a boat ride into the swamps. Here is a snowy great egret (Again, thanks to The Ridger for identifying this bird.) keeping an eye on us.

snowy egret

The tourist boat takes a regular route. They stop at one point and feed the alligators, which are used to being fed there. That was OK, but they also let the tourists hold an alligator baby. Leah wanted to take this one home.

take my alligator

Not really. I was busy with the camera so I couldn’t hold it.

We missed Mardi Gras that year, but I visited New Orleans for Mardi Gras back around 1984 with another graduate student. He had a doctor friend who was in the Navy stationed near New Orleans, so we had a place to stay. The doctor friend took us downtown to see the parade. We got some beads and a few glimpses of naked lady parts, but the thing I remember most was how cold it was. New Orleans experienced a very cold snap for a few days around Mardi Gras. Street vendors were doing a great business selling yellow and purple knit caps, one of which I bought to save my ears.

The other thing I remember is portable toilets overused to the point that urine was streaming down the street. As it happens, the human body does not sweat as much during cold weather, so the body must eliminate fluids some other way. Urinating is that way. Although there were enough portable toilets that they might have sufficed in warmer weather, there was nowhere near enough for the cold weather we had.

Maybe I need to go to Mardi Gras again to wipe that memory away.

Leah thinks I have already posted these picture. If I did, someone might kindly tell me.